Cheeky monkeys and azure clear waters captivated my attention as my ferry hit the shores of Krabi. I came to explore the world above the island, climbing limestone towers that were capped with lush green jungle overgrowth. The adventure was in Krabi, but I found myself meeting locals and culture in the mainland, from buddhist monks, monasteries, and a man named Sue. Sue lived in “Old Town” and was a retired military translator. He now utilized his skills to teach English to young children. I seized this moment to show him some magic and we became fast friends. He told me of a place off the coast of the mainland in Surin, where a tribe called the Moken lived. He told me I should experience the village if it was magic I was after.

The Moken children were revered as having excellent underwater perception. They can shrink their pupils underwater and change their lens shape for better vision. I was eager to meet these magnificent people.