When I arrived in Iceland, I was met with a landscape shaped by hardened expanses of molten lava, swaths of green moss, towering mountains, and craters that spanned as far as the eye could see. I was traversing across the enchanting landscape, through weather that changed as quickly as the music track I had playing in my ear. I was meeting up with Icelandic Ice climbing pioneer Einar Squrosson. Together we were to explore the vast Vatnajokull Glacier, the largest in Iceland. Outfitted with Ice tools and crampons, we traveled through crystal blue ice tunnels, scaled glacier walls, and discussed tales of ancient viking lore.